Poke, man? Fresh Outer Banks tuna makes a delicious Hawaiian-inspired dish

Running off the coast of the Outer Banks, tuna is one of the most popular seafood items served up in homes and restaurants in the region. And what’s not to love? The firm-fleshed fish has a mild, rich flavor, and can be used in a wide array of dishes, from sashimi to grilled steaks.

A favorite way of mine to enjoy tuna has a nod to the 50th state. Poke (pronounced poh-kay), is a popular crisp and light seafood dish consisting of diced raw fish - tuna is typically used - marinated in complementary ingredients.

The dish began, like many, by not letting food go to waste. Historians say Hawaiian fishermen would use seasoned pieces cut off their fresh catch that wasn’t going to market as a snack. Other ingredients were added, popularity grew, and poke became mainstream.

Though the name comes from the Hawaiian verb meaning to cut or slice, this dish has grown in popularity on the mainland in the past decade or so. The surfing vibe along the Outer Banks and indeed in many coastal communities lends itself to replication.

This isn’t ceviche, where a citrus juice reacts to seafood protein and slightly cooks it. Poke, although there could be citrus elements, is raw fish, which makes it extremely important in purchasing the freshest seafood possible.

Poke can be served as hors d’oeuvres or as an entrée, depending on the serving size and accompaniments. The dish uses tuna, one of the most popular fishes harvested in North Carolina waters. Use market-fresh veggies in this dish.

To market:

Here are our picks for fresh seafood markets-of-the-moment. We’ll highlight other markets in future OBX Eats columns.

Billy’s Seafood

Open since 1971, Billy’s Seafood offers a wide variety of seafood, including tuna, from April through November. Bait and merchandise are also available.

Billy’s Seafood is at 1341 Colington Road, Kill Devil Hills. Call 252-441-5978 or visit www.BillysSeafoodOBX.com

Carawan Seafood Co.

Carawan, established in 1980, serves up a large assortment of seafood, like tuna. Blue crabs, shrimp and other shellfish are offered steamed.

Carawan Seafood is at 5424 N. Croatan Highway, Kitty Hawk. Call 252-261-2120 or visit www.CarawanSeafood.com

O’Neals Sea Harvest

Founded in 1995, O’Neal’s has a wide product range, such as tuna. They also offer a restaurant showcasing seafood selections at Wanchese harbor.

O’Neal’s Sea Harvest is at 618 Harbor Road, Wanchese. Call 252-473-4535 or visit www.ONealsSeaHarvest.com

Seafood selection:

According to the good folks at Sea Grant North Carolina, tuna is in season here year-round, with peak months being June and July.

What should you look for when picking fresh tuna steak from a seafood market? Here’s my top five tips:

Smell the fish, there should be a clean ocean aroma, and nothing off-putting or strong.
Look at the color of the tuna; fresh tuna ranges in color from pink to dark red.
The tuna should look moist, but not wet, and not appear dry or flaky.
Seafood should be served in a chilled display case, and/or on ice. Keeping tuna, or any seafood, below the temperature danger zone at roughly 40F degrees is paramount.
Talk to the fishmonger. Find out the source of the tuna, and ask when it was caught and when they received it in market.

Recipe:

Poke can be served as hors d’oeuvres or as an entrée, depending on the serving size and accompaniments. The dish uses tuna, one of the most popular fishes harvested in North Carolina waters. Use market-fresh veggies in this dish. (Patrick Evans-Hylton)

Tuna Poke

Ingredients

1/2 cup soy sauce

2 tablespoons sesame oil

2 tablespoons olive oil

3/4 cups finely chopped green onions, white and light green parts

1/4 cup finely chopped white or sweet onion

1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

2 pounds fresh tuna, cut into 1/4-inch cubes

1 cup arugula

8-12 endive leaves

1 tablespoon sesame seeds

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2 teaspoons sea salt

2 tablespoons roasted and finely chopped macadamia nuts, optional

Method

Whisk soy sauce, sesame oil, and olive oil together in a medium nonreactive bowl. Stir in green onions, onion, and crushed red pepper flakes. Add tuna and toss to coat. Refrigerate, covered, until well chilled but no more than 2 hours.

Pile arugula or other similar greens onto a serving plate and arrange endive leaves on top. Spoon the tuna into each endive leaf, dividing it equally among the leaves. Sprinkle on sesame seeds and sea salt. Drizzle a bit of the remaining marinade over the tuna and greens and serve immediately. Optionally, sprinkle with macadamia nuts,

Yields 4-6 servings

Patrick Evans-Hylton, PatrickEvansHylton@gmail.com