One of the oldest structures on Granby Street, Charlie’s Cafe is a real diner

The odd-shaped building has stood at the corner of 18th and Granby streets just east of Norfolk’s Ghent now for 119 years.

Two stories, with a sliced off corner and painted tan with aqua, navy blue and red accents, its cartoonish marquee simply announces “Charlie’s.”

But, built in 1904, it was originally a Victorian home, and remains one of the oldest surviving structures along Granby. Later it became a confectionary, and later still, a diner.

The Charlie was Charlie Ellison, who was the owner along with his mother Gladys starting in 1983. It has changed hands several times since, but one thing that has not changed, at least in the three decades I’ve been a patron, has been the quality of greasy-spoon cuisine and warm hospitality.

It’s drawn many famous folks along the way, including Roadfood’s Michael Stern, who named it as one of the best 800 diners in the United States in one of his tomes. Presidential candidate Beto O’Rourke has dined here, too, as well as academy award-winning actor Tom Hanks.

But its mainstay has been the loyal diners who crave affordable, approachable food, like me. We recently went for brunch, and tried out the most famous meal on the menu.

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The Tom Hanks platter at Charlie’s Cafe, named after the actor, is a huge plate of food with country fried steak atop two big fluffy biscuits and topped with thick sausage gravy full of sausage. Two eggs over easy, breakfast potatoes and grits rounded out my breakfast. (Patrick Evans-Hylton/Freelance)

The Eat: Tom Hanks platter, $14.99

In June, 2012, Tom Hanks was in Norfolk filming the movie “Captain Phillips,” which chronicles the true story of Capt. Richard Phillips who was the skipper on a cargo freighter in 2009 when it was seized by Somali pirates.

For three weeks, Hanks dined at several restaurants in the area, and, at the time, noted the Granby Platter, an offering of biscuits swimming in sausage gravy, and served with eggs over easy at Charlie’s Cafe. The dish has since been renamed the Tom Hanks Platter.

That’s what I ordered on my visit, and I was rewarded with a huge plate of food. Center of the plate is country fried steak or country fried chicken ― I chose the former ― atop two big fluffy biscuits that have been split open to receive the meaty offering. Thick cream gravy full of sausage is ladled on, enrobing it like a warm, delicious blanket.

Two eggs are on the platter ― like Hanks, I like mine over easy ― and the option of a side, of which I picked breakfast potatoes. I also love grits, so I ordered an extra side of those.

Everything was Oscar worthy. The steak was crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. The biscuits were ethereal. The gravy was so good I was tempted to order some more just for sopping up the dish. I enjoyed the eggs, the potatoes, and the grits. And I struggled to keep the top button of my pants fastened.

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At Charlie’s Cafe, the Bloody Mari is an interesting take on the classic morning cocktail, with sake — the Japanese fermented rice wine — replacing the traditional vodka. The taste difference is subtle and delicious. (Patrick Evans-Hylton/Freelance)

The Drink: Bloody Mari

I have extolled the many splendid things about bloody marys here in this column before, and I’m going to do it one more time.

But this isn’t your usual bloody, crafted with tomato juice, vodka, and seasonings. At Charlie’s Cafe, the Bloody Mari is an interesting take, with sake ― the Japanese fermented rice wine ― replacing the traditional vodka.

The taste difference is subtle, and delicious. There’s a bit more of a fullness to the drink, and a rounded, slightly sweeter taste. Each sip from the pint-sized mason jar was enjoyed.

Of note, there are also four mimosa options, from classic to ones with the addition of cranberry juice, muddled mint, or muddled strawberries. They not only come in a pint glass, like the Bloody Mari, but also in a half-gallon size for sharing.

Charlie’s Cafe is at 1800 Granby St., Norfolk. Call 757-625-0824 or visit www.facebook.com/1800CharliesCafe.

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Wednesday Pie and Pint Night continues at Grace O’Malley’s Irish Pub and Restaurant on May 24. The event, which is also offered May 31 and subsequent Wednesdays, runs from 11 a.m. until 9:30 p.m. Enjoy the meat pie of the day, along with a pint of beer from the daily draft offerings, priced at $11.33.

Grace O’Malley’s is at 211 Granby St., Norfolk. Call 757-333-3330 or visit www.IrishPubNorfolk.com.

Virginia Stage Company’s Wine Down Wednesdays at the Wells is a fun way to celebrate the middle of the work week. The event continues on May 24, and is also offered May 31 and subsequent Wednesdays from 5 until 7 p.m. Staff at The Wells Theatre welcome folks to wine, or any other imbibe from the bar, and music. The event is open to the public and reservations are not required.

The Wells Theatre is at 108 E. Tazewell St., Norfolk. Call 757-627-1234 or visit www.VaStage.org.

COVA Brewing Company Books & Brews Club has its monthly meeting on May 31 at the East Beach brewery at 6 p.m. The group, which reads one book a month voted on by members, is open to anyone, and is free to join.

COVA Brewing Company is at 9529 Shore Drive, Norfolk. Call 757-917-5499 or visit www.COVABrewCo.com.

Patrick Evans-Hylton, PatrickEvansHylton@gmail.com