Taco options are terrific and plentiful at Union Taco in Norfolk

Let’s face it, tacos are terrific. They even have their own unofficial holiday, which occurs each week on Tuesday.

I’ve enjoyed tacos for going on a half-century, and I can’t even imagine how many of these tasty treats I’ve eaten. I’ve had fast food tacos and tacos from vendors on the streets of Mexico City at midnight.

For years, I didn’t think a taco could contain anything other than ground beef, but as the dish became more mainstream here in this country, particularly the American South where I grew up, there options opened up.

Fish tacos. Chicken tacos. Tacos with just about every ingredient can be found, enveloped in a folded tortilla of corn or flour, soft or hard. A few years ago birria tacos hit the scene hard, and folks everywhere were dunking the meat in a sassy, savory consommé.

Recently my partner, Doug, and I met our good friend Stella Pomianek, an owner of Cafe Stella in Norfolk, for a late lunch at Union Taco.

Although there are a number of tempting menu items here in this airy, open, and inviting restaurant, the name of the game here is tacos, and that’s what we focused on.

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The eat: Tacos, prices vary

There are a dozen taco offerings on the bill of fare at Union Taco. The dishes we enjoyed were:

• Chicken Tinga, $4.50 each or three for $12; marinated chicken with refried black beans, avocado, cilantro, greens, and queso fresco.
• Bulgogi Beef, $5 each or three for $14; Korean barbecue beef, cilantro, sriracha, queso fresco, and quick-chi, a take on kimchi.
• Classic with chorizo, $4.50 each or three for $12; chorizo, a Mexican sausage, with cilantro, chipotle sauce, onion, and queso fresco. Other protein options include beans, chicken, or steak.
• Coliflor, $4 each or three for $10; roasted cauliflower, avocado, black beans, cilantro, honey sriracha, kale, root vegetables, and pico de gallo.
• Seared Ahi, $5 or three for $14; ahi tuna, avocado, cilantro, cucumber salad, pacific sauce, and sesame seed.

Another addition were the Birria Tacos, a house specialty entree, priced three for $21, and not sold a la carte. We shared these and enjoyed the tortilla piled with braised beef, Monterey Jack cheese, and queso fresco served with consommé for dipping and drizzling. Beans and rice come alongside.

All of them were delicious on their own; here are some highlights. We loved the unusual take of the Bulgogi Beef, which had some wonderful depth and heat, foiled by the quickly-made kimchi. The chorizo was toothsome, with the rustic flavor we favor from the Mexican variety; this reminded us of many nights in Mexico City. The Coliflor was a fabulous and flavorful addition for a meatless option. The consommé for the birria was addiction; we’d put a splash of that in a bloody mary any day.

And before you think, four or five bucks for a taco, a mass-produced “supreme” offering crafted with highly-processed ingredients at one of the leading fast food taco restaurants in these parts is $3.99. You simply can not equate the quality between the two. Plus, Union Taco is locally owned and operated.

We started with the addictive housemade guacamole, a perfect mix of avocado, cilantro, lime juice, and red pepper flakes, topped with pico de gallo, then served with tortilla chips. Large chunks of the fruit added texture, the lime and pico a pop of flavor, and red pepper a tad bit of heat.Lunch ended on a sweet note with all of us taking bites from the Churro Sundae, a fun take on the classic Mexican pastry. Here a cinnamon-sugar dusted churro is served atop salted caramel ice cream and drizzled with a caramel sauce. It was a beautiful, rich mix of salty and sweet.

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The drink: Classic margarita

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Union Taco has a very creative cocktail list, but it’s hard to beat a good, classic margarita.

Here Cazadores Reposado tequila is mixed with Cointreau, tres agave nectar, lime, and orange juice

Between the three of us at my table, we ordered other drinks too, and enjoyed sharing sips.

Also enjoyed was the Paloma, a refreshing mix principally of tequila and grapefruit juice, the Pau Hana, a sassy cocktail with, among other ingredients, tequila, charred pineapple, and smoke bitters, and the Coco-Rita, which could become my next obsession. Here tequila mixes with coconut milk, coconut water, triple sec, agave nectar, and lime.

A second Union Taco location opens soon in the Summit Pointe development in Chesapeake.

Union Taco is at 218 W. 25th St., Norfolk. Call 757-402-3917 or visit www.UnionTacoVa.com

Patrick Evans-Hylton, PatrickEvansHylton@gmail.com