Fresh, open-air brunch spot coming to Virginia Beach Oceanfront, in former Home Republic Brewing

When the hobbits set out on their grand journey in “The Lord of the Rings,” they were appalled to learn their breakfast habits would be seriously curtailed.

“We’ve had one, yes. But what about second breakfast?” Pippin said. “What about elevenses?”

Elevenses wasn’t just an invention for hobbits: It’s an 18th-century British term for a midmorning meal, often some tea and some sausages. And it’s one that’ll be revived on the Virginia Beach Oceanfront with a new brunch restaurant in the now-closed Home Republic Brewing.

“Elevenses is a fancy term for your second breakfast,” said Dennis Ferrigno, Jr., who said he hopes to open Elevenses by early July. “It was 1800s high royalty, eating at 11 before they’d eat at noon.”

Ferrigno hopes to impart some of that same luxury in his new brunch spot, drawing inspiration not just from England but all over the country and world — from toad-in-the-hole toasts to stacked open-faced omelets to Southern chicken and waffles with candied pecans and bourbon sauce.

Home Republic, founded in 2014, closed quietly in February after Ferrigno responded to an ad to buy the business.

“I knew I wanted to own a restaurant one day, but I didn’t think it would be this soon,” he said. “But they were looking for an exit. And I saw an opportunity.”

Ferrigno also pulled in some investment from non-managing partners.

Despite being only 29, he’s already a 16-year veteran of Hampton Roads food and drink after starting at his father’s Virginia Beach spot, La Pizzeria, as a young teen.

“I had a name tag that said ‘Hello my name is: I take tips,’” Ferrigno remembered. Since then, he’s worked in every part of restaurants in Virginia Beach — busser, bartender, waiter, cook, valet, manager — in spots ranging from Lager Heads to Harpoon Larry’s to Timbuktu. For the past five years, he’s run a catered bartending business called Executive Beverage.

Dennis Ferrigno Jr., makes a batch of orange crush at an event at Hermitage Museum and Gardens in 2017, as part of his cocktail catering company Executive Beverage. (Bill Tiernan)

Elevenses will be a restaurant attuned to the needs of the lingering pandemic, Ferrigno said, with open-air seating and a take-out window for those who want to take their food or cocktails to go.

“Really we’re focusing on a fresh approach, an open-air environment,” Ferrigno said. “It’s what COVID did to us: It took away our ability to enjoy each other out in open areas. We’ll have an 18-foot garage door on the front and side, 32-foot ceilings. We’ll hang an 18-foot trellis down the middle, bring in vines, bring in plants. We’ll have living plant walls, lots of oxygen.”

He said the freshness will also extend to the food. The menu will include new takes on old-school brunch dishes, including brioche French toast rolled in cornflakes and “decadent” versions of eggs Benedict. But it will also include farro bowls and breakfast burritos, as well as healthful turmeric-ginger shots or fresh-juiced, kale-and-carrot drinks he discovered in Ft. Lauderdale. The chicken and eggs will be free-range, the beef grass-fed. Drinks will include “colorful and vibrant” nonalcoholic breakfast drinks and bubble teas, along with juicy, boozy crushes and mimosas.

“The biggest thing,” he said, “is to pull in fresh ingredients.”

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Ferrigno said he’s sensitive to the new COVID realities, including the need to give staff reasons to come back. He’s hiring at what he calls “industry-leading” wages with incentives for servers that include trips to Mexico or multi-thousand-dollar bonuses for top sellers.

“Quality people don’t want to struggle,” he said. “If you put people in an archaic labor model, you’ll have bad service.”

He’s bullish on the future for the tourist district as the one-shot vaccinated population approaches 50%.

“We’re going to shift dramatically to experiences and being out again. And one of the core things to do is eat. Restaurants, food and beverage are going to soar,” he said. “The Beach will see huge growth, and we just want to be one of those awesome spots people feel comfortable in — with wide-open garage doors, people breathing in fresh air, beautiful plants pumping oxygen in and a sound system with a subwoofer at the hostess stand.”

Dennis Ferrigno Jr. stands in front of his forthcoming brunch restaurant, Elevenses, on the Virginia Beach Oceanfront. Ferrigno began his food career at the age of 13 at his father's restaurant, La Pizzeria. (Courtesy Dennis Ferrigno Jr.)

Elevenses hopes to open in early July at 328 Laskin Road, Virginia Beach. You can follow their progress on the placeholder pages at facebook.com/elevensesvb or elevensesvb.com.

Got burning questions about Hampton Roads food? Articles you’d like to see? Starting in the next few weeks, food writer Matthew Korfhage will hold regular Facebook video chats answering reader questions, and providing deeper context on food stories. Send questions or notes to matthew.korfhage@pilotonline.com with the subject line “WHAT’S UP WITH FOOD”.

Matthew Korfhage, 757-446-2318, matthew.korfhage@pilotonline.com