Manteo’s 1587 Restaurant & Lounge serves up classics with a local twist

Off the beaten path, downtown Manteo stands in stark contrast to the sandy stretch of coast just a short ride away. Folks stroll down curved streets that are lined with homes and shops; everything is just a little slower pace.

Standing prominent and regal at the end of Queen Elizabeth Avenue is The Tranquil House Inn, an iconic, three-story boutique inn on the town’s historic waterfront.

The building is beautiful as you approach it, a welcoming, time-honored Nantucket-style property. That beauty and hospitality extend as you walk in, and through, to the back where there are gorgeous views of the creek leading out to Shallowbag Bay.

You don’t have to be a guest here to enjoy 1587 Restaurant & Lounge, and that’s a good thing.

The vibrant bar and dining scene, which occasionally is accented with live music, is contemporary, with muted colors and clean lines that are comforting and relaxing. The service the night of our visit was impeccable.

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The Eat: An assortment of local eats; prices vary

I love eating local whenever possible, whether I’m a few miles from home, or further.

Enjoying produce from the land, and seafood from the water just down the road from where you are dining sates the soul and stomach, and gives you a true sense of place. It’s also a great way to show appreciation for the farmers and watermen in the region.

Looking across the well-written menu at 1587 Restaurant & Lounge, the provenance of most of the dishes were clearly defined.

With that criteria in mind, three dishes — two small plates and one main — stood out, with ingredients all coming from the nearby fishing village of Wanchese.

One, shrimp and grits, is a small plate with highly seasoned green tail shrimp studding a rich, creamy pool of white cheddar stone ground grits. Also present were house-cured lardons, essentially thick dices of smoky bacon.

The shrimp were sweet and toothsome, firm and flavorful with a subtle salty flavor. The lardons brought an additional punch of taste, complimenting the dish in both taste and texture. Shrimp and grits are priced at $18.

Seared scallops was another wonderful seafood small plate. Here dry-pack sea scallops, enrobed in a rich honey-soy glaze, are seared until golden brown on the outside, but still tender on the inside. They stood alongside an addictive slaw of cucumber and fennel, fried parsnips, and fresh fennel. Sesame seeds gave a nutty element to the dish, and a bright parsley coulis, drizzled about, brought the elements together. Seared scallops are market priced.

From mains, I picked local rockfish. The firm-flesh white fish was gorgeously seared, creating a textural difference between the flaky, moist interior. The fish sat as a crown on a decadent parmesan risotto, bringing to mind the shrimp and grits I enjoyed earlier in the evening.

Also on the plate was roasted broccolini, a stand-in for the asparagus mentioned on the menu. The substitution was fine in my book; I love broccolini, a long-stalked green vegetable similar to broccoli, but with much smaller florets. The fish is drizzled with an opulent hollandaise sauce and a ring of chimichurri, the piquant, vinegary South American sauce, and parsley coulis encircles the entree. I enjoyed every bite. The rockfish is priced at $34.

The meal ended on a sweet note with a delicious, dense lemon-olive oil cake, served with whipped cream and fresh berries.

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The Drink: 1587 Old fashioned

Classic cocktails are called that for a reason; they stand the test of time, enchanting imbibers over the years. And while a classic drink shaken or stirred in its time-honored method is wonderful, I do like to see twists through the creativity of bartenders.

That’s the case with the 1587 Old Fashioned. Here Woodford Reserve bourbon is sweetened with maple syrup, and accented with fig and orange bitters, as well as Angostura bitters. A singed rosemary sprig hangs on the side, secured with a miniature clothespin.

This is a rich, complex drink. The full-bodied, sweetness of the bourbon teams up with the maple syrup, and meets its match with the artisan bitters. A swirl of the piney, smoky rosemary ups the ante.

Also enjoyed was the Budleigh Painkiller, a take on the Caribbean mainstay, made with local Kill Devil Rum honey pecan, pineapple juice, orange juice, creme de coconut, and served with lots of ice garnished with a shaving of fresh nutmeg. Additive - and intoxicating, literally - this drink sneaks up on you.

1587 Restaurant & Lounge is in The Tranquil House Inn at 405 Queen Elizabeth Ave., Manteo. Call 252-473-1404 or visit www.TranquilHouseInn.com.

Patrick Evans-Hylton, PatrickEvansHylton@gmail.com